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Every spring FACT receives hundreds of calls from very concerned
people who have found a young bird and want to know what to do with
it. Unfortunately, we do not have the time or manpower to take care of
such animals, but the following information tells you how to house,
how to feed, what to feed, and how to prepare orphaned baby birds for
release. Just keep in mind that your find is a baby and needs food,
shelter, and protection.
SHOULD YOU KEEP A BIRD YOU FIND?
A young bird found on the ground may be a nestling-not fully
feathered and not strong enough to hop around; or a fledgling--fully
feathered and able to hop around and flap its wings. If a nestling
appears healthy and vigorous, return it to the nest, if possible;
usually the parent will care for the bird even if it has been handled
by humans. If the nest can't be reached or the bird appears weak and
lifeless, you may have to keep it and raise it; if the bird is injured
or in very poor condition, it won't be able to compete with its nest
mates if you put it back in the nest.
A healthy fledgling may not be a abandoned baby--it may have left the
nest and still be in the care of its parents. It should be placed in a
bush or tree near the place it was found. Prevent cats and dogs from
bothering it and the parent will probably come to its rescue. Don't
remove the bird from the site unless you are sure it is lost or
abandoned and can't take care of itself. Since it is illegal to
capture a wild bird, injured or not, a special permit must be obtained
from a state or federal game warden in order to keep a young bird.
These permits are issued only on the condition that the bird will be
properly released as soon as it is able. Do not plan to keep a wild
bird as a pet!
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NESTS, NESTLINGS, AND NESTING
by Dan Cooper,
Director of Bird Conservation
Copied with permission from
Audubon California. Images courtesy Alison Sheehey ©
Nature Alley.
Q: What do I do if a bird has fallen out of its nest?
A: It is natural for nestlings to jump out of the nest just
before they can fly, and for the parents to bring them food during
this period. Is is also perfectly natural for the parents to
remove very young birds that are not thriving. If the adults are
in the area (and sound agitated), just back off and let them take
care of the young bird. Secure pets indoors during this time. If
there are cats and dogs around that you cannot secure, gently pick
up the bird and place it in a box or basket. Try locating the nest
and place it back in as best you can. If you cannot find the nest,
leave the young bird in a box or basket and place out of reach of
predators and let the parents continue to feed their young.
Q: What do I do about birds building a nest in an
inappropriate place on my property?
A: The best advice is to stop this process as soon as it
starts. Remove the nest materials by hand or with a hose, making
sure not to injure any nearby wildlife.
CAUTION: This action is only appropriate in the beginning
stages of nest building. If nesting has already begun, it is
against the law to injure or disturb wildlife.
Q: How long is the incubation period for my backyard birds?
How long until the young ones leave the nest?
A: The length of time varies from species to species. Here
are a few common birds:
Western Scrub Jay: 16 days incubation; 18 days until young
first fly
House Finch: 12-16 days incubation; 11-19 days until young
first fly
American Robin: 12-14 days incubation; 14-16 days until
young first fly
Nuttall's Woodpecker: 14 days incubation; 29 days until
first flight
American Crow: 18 days incubation; 28-35 days until first
flight
Mourning Dove: 17-19 days incubation; 35-37 days until
young first fly
Anna's Hummingbird: 14-18 days incubation; 18-21 days until
young first fly
Black Phoebe: 15-17 days incubation; 20-21 days until young
first fly
Northern Mockingbird: 12 days incubation; 10-12 days until
young first fly
Cliff Swallow: 12-16 days incubation; 23 days until young
first fly |
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HOUSING
Down-covered young birds should be kept in a cardboard box indoors
away from pets and small children and out of direct sun or drafts.
Keep the temperature in the box between 80ºand 90º F. A lamp with a 40
or 60 watt bulb should provide enough heat, but don't put the lamp
directly over the bird. This won't be necessary if the bird is fully
feathered.
Cover the box to cut down on disturbance to the bird, eliminate
drafts, and prevent the bird from getting out of the box. Put an
artificial nest made of a cottage cheese or similar container lined
with paper towels in the box. This will support the bird. When the
bird begins to get out of this "nest", provide a perch or two for it
to rest on. Do not use a wire cage--birds often will get excited and
damage their feathers on wire so that they won't be able to fly
properly later.
FEEDING
Nestlings require frequent feedings-- as much as every 30 minutes from
dawn to dark. One person should take care of the bird to avoid
excessive human contact. (Don't tame the bird!). Food should be at
room temperature and of soft consistency. The bird shouldn't need
water if the food is fairly moist.
Begin feeding young birds with an eyedropper. Fill the dropper so
there are no air bubbles. If the bird won't open its mouth when food
is presented, gently open the beak by slipping a fingernail between
the upper and lower jaws and prying them apart. Put the dropper in the
back of the bird's throat, behind the tongue, and slowly squeeze the
dropper. Be careful not to get fluid in the breathing tube in the
floor of the mouth just behind the tongue. Clean food from the beak
and feathers with a moist tissue.
Later the bird will take thicker food and will eventually open the
beak when it sees food or it may even squawk when it wants food. Stick
the food to the end of a pointed popsicle stick or a drinking straw
cut on a slant and give it to the bird. Do not use metal
tweezers--they may damage the bird's tender mouth. As the bird grows
it will eat more, but less frequently.
FOOD
Birds have a high metabolic rate and a high energy requirement. Bread
crumbs and milk are not sufficient. Most baby birds are unable to feed
themselves; normally the parents feed them, so putting bird seeds or
worms in the box does no good. You have to put the food into the baby.
At first you may have to pry open the beak to do this, but soon the
bird will realize that you are the source of food (Momma) and will
open its beak and squawk whenever it is hungry or when it hears you
approach. Feed it when it asks for it. When it has enough it will
collapse and sleep until it is hungry again.
Emergency Food
When a bird is first found, it likely is hungry and dehydrated. You
may make a quick food that will keep the bird alive until you can
prepare a complete diet. The following recipes are for emergency use
only and should not be used for more than a few hours since they are
only "energy" foods, not "growing" foods.
Mix 4 tsp. water and 1 tsp. sugar - OR
2 tsp. water and 1 tsp. white Karo syrup - OR
2 egg yolks and 2 oz. boiled and cooled Coca Cola.
Feed the mixture with an eyedropper. Fill the dropper, poke it down
the bird's throat (past the entrance to the air pipe or trachea), and
pump it in. Take care to keep the food from soiling the bird's
feathers. Once it dries, it will be very difficult to remove without
harming the bird.
COMPLETE DIETS
The majority of birds can be classified in two groups: meat eaters and
seed eaters. Basic diets for these are listed below with suggestions
for special foods for different species of birds. The sooner you
identify the bird, the sooner you can provide the best diet. The basic
foods mentioned in these diets can be classified into two groups:
MEAT:
* P/D dogfood (canned and available from most veterinarians),
* dry puppy kibbles (have to be soaked in water),
* boiled chicken, strained beef baby food,
* hard boiled chicken egg yolk,
* live insects such as flies and mealworms.
GRAIN:
* high protein dry baby cereal ,
* wheat germ,
* corn or oat meal that has been powdered down in a blender.
MEAT and GRAIN proportions are generally:
INSECT EATER BIRDS -- 1 part MEAT to 2 parts GRAIN
SEED EATER BIRDS -- 1 part MEAT to 4 parts GRAIN
When MEAT is asked for in the diet, you can pick any MEAT from the
MEAT group. You can then add in, the right proportions , any GRAIN
from the GRAIN group. For example, a seed-eater diet could be 1 part
P/D dogfood and 5 parts wheat germ. It is suggested that you can vary
this diet as much as possible as long as you stay within the proper
framework. For example the next time you mix up a batch of formula for
your seed eater bird, you might use 1 part boiled chicken and 5 parts
high protein baby cereal. Variety is the spice of life, and also keeps
young birds healthy.
A good pinch of VET-NUTRI, a Squib vitamin/mineral supplement
available at most veterinarians, should be added to each new batch of
food you mix. Sprinkle over and mix in. Mix food daily; never mix more
than you can use in a day's time. Otherwise it may sour. Supplement
these basic diets with frequent little goodies whenever possible.
Normal diets are listed below, so use your imagination. Those
occasional tidbits of natural food help. Remember that young birds eat
large amounts of food and at frequent intervals. Some consume an
amount equal to their own weight each day. Just leaving food in the
box or feeding two or three times a day is not enough!
SPECIFIC DIETS
Click on the name of the bird you think you have; to see the
recommended diet.
FLYCATCHER, PHOEBE, PEEWEE--(normal
diet is insects, some fruit). Feed INSECT-EATER DIET. One that works
is straight P/D dogfood mixed with hard boiled egg yolk, dried flies,
crushed mealworms and pupae (remove heads) Supplement with bits of
non-citrus fruits pyracantha berries.
GROSBEAK, FINCH, SPARROW, GOLDFINCH, TOWHEE, JUNCO, HORNED LARK--(normal
diet is seeds and insects. Feed INSECT-EATER DIET: A successful mix
is: one ounce GRAIN mixed with water, and one teaspoon strained beef
baby food, and one thin slice of banana. Supplement diet with
mealworms.
HAWK, OWL, VULTURE, EAGLE,
FALCON--(normal diet is rodents, birds, insects, other small
mammals). At first week of bird's age, feed them pink, hairless rat
babies (approx. one week old). Don't use rat heads or stomachs (white
and full of milk). Chop up rest of carcass to bite size, probably
match-head size, and feed everything to the bird. At 2nd and 3rd week
of bird's age, you can use older rats (2-3 weeks old), but no heads or
stomachs and skin them. Feed everything including bones. After 4th
week of birds age, it can have whole bodies of mice and some of the
fur. Fur for casting material is NOT necessary.
HUMMINGBIRD--(normal diet is nectar, aphids,
small insects, spiders). 4 parts boiled water to 1 part granulated
sugar, plus mockingbird food (pet stores), Esbilac (bitch's milk
supplement available from pet stores), mealworm innards. Good mix is:
2 cups water, 1/2 cup sugar, 20 squeezed mealworm insides, 1 tsp
mocking bird food, 1 tblsp. Esbilac, a pinch VET-NUTRI.
JAY,
MAGPIE, CROW, RAVEN, CLARK'S NUTCRACKER, STARLING--(normal diet is
omnivorous). Feed INSECT-EATER DIET. Supplement diet with mealworms,
watersoaked currents or raisins, bits of non-citrus fruits, and
berries such as pyracantha. Also sun flower seeds, peanuts (without
the shell). Also occasional bits of chopped rat or mouse.
KILLDEER--(normal diet is insects and worms).
Killdeer leave the nest soon after they hatch and feed independently,
under the watchful eye of the parents. Usually "rescued" killdeer are
picked up on a lawn and the finder assumes they are orphaned. Best
thing to do is put them back and wait for the mother to call them to
her. Keep in a box with a light. Put in a shallow dish of water; drop
globs of tubifex worms (get at fish stores) into the water. Killdeer
will eat them voraciously. Add mealworms later.
MEADOWLARK, BLACKBIRD, ORIOLE, WOODPECKER, SAPSUCKER, FLICKER, SHRIKE,
THRUSH, ROBIN, BLUEBIRD, WAXWING--(normal diet insects, fruits,
seeds). -- (normal diet ). Feed INSECT-EATER DIET. Supplement with
mealworms, watersoaked currents, raisins, bits of non-citrus fruits
and berries such as pyracantha. SAPSUCKERS do not do well on whole
crushed mealworms. It's better to give them wax worms (check with a
bee keeper), crickets, crushed mealworms. You can also supplement them
with HUMMINGBIRD FORMULA.
MOCKINGBIRD, THRASHER, NUTHATCH, TITMOUSE, WRENTIT, BUSHTIT, CHICKADEE--(normal
diet is insects, seeds, berries). Feed INSECT EATER DIET. Suggestion:
straight P/D dogfood mixed with hardboiled egg yolk dried flies,
crushed mealworms, and pupae (remove heads). Supplement with bits of
non-citrus fruits, such as the pyracantha berry. Give extra pinch of
VET-NUTRI. Prone to rickets.
PIGEON, DOVE--(normal diet seeds, grains,
fruits). Feed 1/3 chick starter (available at feed stores),
1/3 GRAIN, 1/3 wild bird seed (pet stores). Mix with water to make
slushy gruel. If mix is put into crop dry, add water ever so often.
Palpate crop to make sure it always feels slushy, otherwise if too dry
it will bind up and kill the bird. Only fill crop about 1/2 full at a
time.
SWIFT, SWALLOW, VIREO, WARBLER, KINGLET, GNATCATCHER, WREN--(normal
diet insects of flying type). Feed straight P/D dog food mixed with
hardboiled egg yolk, dried flies, crushed adult mealworms and pupae
(remove heads). Thin to feedable consistency. Supplement with fresh
flies, spiders.
CHUKAR, QUAIL, PHEASANTS
--(seed-eaters). Normally escapees from a captive breeding site, these
birds feed independently. Give small bird seed, grit (coarse sand),
and water.
WATER
When the bird is eating solid food on its own, it will need water. You
can drop a little water on its beak or into its mouth until it catches
on or ̉teachÓ it to drink by gently dipping its beak into water, then
releasing it immediately. Keep a small dish of water in the box. A
large dish will create a hazard for the bird and likely cause a mess
in the box.
SELF-FEEDING
The bird will learn to feed on its own. Fruit- and seed-eaters
will learn to feed themselves if you place a soft piece of fruit
(apple or banana) on a flat surface in front of the bird and gently
press the bird's beak into the fruit. Bits of fruit will stick to the
beak and the bird will eat them. Repeat this procedure at each feeding
until the bird feeds by itself. You may put small bird seeds in for
seed-eaters to practice on.
Insect-eaters can be given mealworms or other small crawling insects
in a similar manner. Usually the bird quickly learns to pick up any
crawling animal. If the bird is reluctant to feed on its own, wait a
day or so and try again. Feeding is a matter of maturity, the
instinctive behavior will not begin until the bird is old enough.
Flying
You don't have to teach the bird to fly. When it is old enough, it
will fly instinctively. You may move the bird to a larger box to give
it more room. Put several sticks or dowels through the box for
perches. Young birds may begin to fly a week or two before they can
feed them selves, so don't rush them. Don't let the bird fly freely in
the house! It is likely to get trapped by furniture, windows, and
cats.
RELEASING THE BIRD
Once the bird is feeding itself on its natural diet, you should
release it in a familiar area where it can be protected from cats and
dogs until it can fend for itself. An outside aviary is ideal for this
purpose. Provide natural food and after a week leave the door open
during the day and close it at night for protection. It may take
several weeks for the bird to adjust to the outdoors and stop
returning to the cage for food. Give the bird time and continue to
provide food. Don't handle or talk to the bird during this time; you
should be breaking the ties between you and the bird. |
